I can spot a New York designer from a mile away. There’s something in the city’s designer collections that is distinctly different from Europe’s bunch. Perhaps New Yorkers design with a forthrightness that creates a consistent, comprehensible look season after season, or maybe New York designers are more cynical and practical than Europe’s boisterous bunch. Whatever the correct traits may be, New York designer Doo-Ri Chung created a Spring collection that perfectly exemplifies this New York archetype. The designer presented comprehensible Spring looks that women want to wear while still maintaining within the collection an edgy, independent vibe.
While obviously more conservative, Doo-Ri channeled in her Spring collection a Celine-like vibe. This look was accomplished through the collection’s fluid draping that combined with whites and creams to create a very relaxed, chic look. For a relatively young, small operation—Chung was selected as a finalist in 2006’s CFDA fashion fund award—a great many of the designs were spot on, like the white-lapeled coats, the flowing pleated trousers, and the high-waisted shorts paired with a one-shoulder halter-like wrap. This first part of the collection is refreshing and simple, so Chung did well when she presented a dissolving-print dress at the end of the show. The designer does dresses well, but this look, with its contrasting heavy prints and techniques came as a surprise, but yet still managed to look harmonious within the rest of the simple collection. It was a decadent ending to a solid show.