I feel like the Central Saint Martins MA show has been overlooked since its debut at the beginning of London Fashion Week. The shows that occur at the beginning of any fashion week do have a tendency to become eclipsed by the large reservoir of anticipation. But still, graduate shows are unique because the audience has few expectations of what is to come. And there were many novel and innovative collections presented at the show; the designs by Maarten Van Der Horst, Helen Bullock and Charlotte Smith stood out.
Maarten Van Der Horst’s collection used similar Polynesian flora motifs that were seen on Prada’s Spring runway. Van Der Horst’s designs, however, had their own unique perspective. The designer used these exotic prints in combination with celadon and lavender tulle. Foremost, these looks was interesting. The combinations were surprising, particularly for the contrast of disharmonious colors. The look was rich, but it still felt fresh.
Charlotte Smith’s collection of dresses, piled high with cotton tassels, definitely made a statement; perhaps the dresses stood as a testament to the designer’s ability to create shape and movement out of copious amounts of draping. Whatever; it was fun and alternative and looked well put together.
Helen Bullock’s long, tunic dresses were simple and artistic. The blocked pastel colors were painted on the canvas-like fabric, and combined with the red floral prints, the looks maintained an interesting, steady contrast.
(images: Vogue UK)