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Haider Ackermann, the Parisian designer who launched his label in 2001, put on a masterful performance in Paris. Beginning with dark and flat monochromatic looks and ending with nuanced tonals in brilliant, jeweled colors, the show moved along a natural crescendo that ended with designs that were decadent but still modern and fresh.
Ackermann’s collection appeared post-apocalyptic, at least initially. Long wooly dress jackets that were belted around the waist reminded me of a futuristic fighter (most notably Trinity from the Matrix), but Ackermann quickly moved along, incorporating into the collection more color and sheen.
These latter designs were exceptional. Like in many of the Fall collections, Ackermann used jewel-like tones in subtle contrasts, forest green on teal green, royal blue atop jade. The effect was rich, and called attention to Ackermann’s keen talent for layering and accessorizing, in this case, with belts and jackets. In a way, Ackermann’s collection reminded me of Frank Tell’s in the way that the ethos of the show was dreary yet the designs were brilliant and monumental.
In November, Karl Lagerfeld told Numero magazine that he’d hand over Chanel to Haider Ackermann, now, however, there are rumors that Ackermann may be a fit for Dior.
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(images: Vogue.com)
